Speyer Cathedral
Speyer Cathedral
www.dom-zu-speyer.de; Domplatz; crypt adult/child €3.50/1, tower €6/3; hcathedral & crypt 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-5.30pm Sun Apr-Oct, 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-5.30pm Sun Nov-Mar, tower 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun Apr-Oc
Travel Hack
You can climb the 304 steps of the southwest tower to reach the viewing platform for a great view over town. Also check out the fascinating crypt and 19th-century paintings in the Kaisersaal.
Speyer Cathedral has been a UNESCO Heritage Site since 1981. It is historically and architecturally one of the most important examples of Romanesque architecture in Europe. It was an expression of imperial power at the time of the Salians and built deliberately large ( compared to the town) representing the papal opposition at that time.
History
The cathedral has a lot of historical significance attached to it and gives great insights into various periods of history.
The Salian king - Konrad II probably started construction in 1025 with the aim of building the largest church in the West but it was completed only around the time of his grandson under whom it was consecrated in 1061. It was a large building for a town of only 500 residents and was around the time of the investiture dispute between Henry IV and the papacy.
It was a dispute when the Salian kings wanted to reform the “investiture”. This was a practice of appointment of abbots and bishops which was a religious and politically powerful role and the question of who should appoint - kings or the church. There were many allegations on the roles being sold for money. There was a difference of opinion on the appointment of a Bishop of Milan where Henry had protested and so he was excommunicated. They later managed to sort it out and he had to do a penitence walk from Speyer to Canossa in Italy which meant crossing the Alps in the middle of winter. This apparently warmed the heart of the Pope who revoked the excommunication. He is buried in the Crypt below.
The town regularly hosted imperial parliaments and was a key player in the Holy Roman Empire and it was in 1529, that pro-Luther princes ‘protested’ a harsh anti-Luther edict issued by the Diet of Speyer, thereby starting the use of the term ‘Protestant’. It had weathered damages by fires and wars (especially the Napoleonic Wars) but was restored around 50 years ago.
Crypt & Kaiserhal
It’s the largest crypt in Germany and is simplistic. Its rows of elegant tombs for Four emperors, four kings, and three empresses who are buried here are a highlight.
It also has some amazing frescos in the Kaiserhal ( Emperor’s Hall) which were painted by the artist Johann Baptist. The impressive one is the Portrayal of the coronation of Virgin Mary.
You can also climb to the top of the southwestern tower through here which gives an overview of the Rhine and the town.
My Impressions
The first thing that hits you is the cathedral is quite massive especially once you step inside. It doesn’t stand out inside but externally you can try and see some of the architectural aspects. The frescos in the Kaiserhal are quite impressive with their size and the crypt gives you a sense of history. Overall it was historically important and you get a sense of the history when walking through. But would you remember this over the other cathedrals you might visit in Germany or Europe, would this leave a lasting impression - probably not.
References and Links
https://www.dom-zu-speyer.de/en/
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https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/168/
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speyerer_Dom